TUNNEL VISION, India

Cherry, Cacao Nib, Hibiscus

Riverdale Estate, located in the Shevaroy Hills of Yercaud, Tamil Nadu, has remained under the care of a single family lineage since its founding in 1920. Now overseen by Prakashan Balaraman, the estate sits at an elevation of approximately 1,450 metres above sea level. Its loamy soils, fortified with clay, silt, and sand, and a perennial freshwater stream form a quiet but formidable foundation for the cultivation of fine Arabica coffee.

Under Prakashan’s measured guidance, the estate has adopted contemporary agricultural methods while maintaining a firm hold on its traditional roots. Infrastructure such as a cupping laboratory, energy-efficient pulping facilities, drip irrigation systems, and raised African-style drying beds are not signs of ambition, but of necessity, tools for precision in an unforgiving craft.

The estate cultivates several Arabica varieties, including SL9, SL5B, and Green Tip Gesha. These are processed with meticulous attention, often employing advanced fermentation techniques such as carbonic maceration. One such example is the Riverdale Geisha, which undergoes a 72-hour maceration, yielding a profile marked by notes of jasmine tea, honeysuckle, macerated plum, and muskmelon, an uncommon clarity drawn from both place and process.

Riverdale’s restrained but unrelenting commitment to quality and experimentation has earned it quiet renown beyond national borders. Its coffees are sought after by discerning roasters across the globe, serving as a testament to its enduring contribution to the evolving landscape of specialty coffee.

Through a steady pursuit of sustainable farming and an unwavering devotion to the craft, Prakashan continues to shape Riverdale Estate into a producer of significance, one that speaks softly, but leaves a lasting impression. For this particular lot, ripe cherries are meticulously hand-picked, then subjected to a triple-wash process to eliminate all floaters. Purpose-built fermentation tanks are utilised, where carbon dioxide is introduced to displace oxygen, enabling an extended anaerobic fermentation period. Upon completion of fermentation, the cherries are slow-dried on raised beds to reduce moisture content and enhance airflow, ensuring uniform drying. The coffee is then rested for six weeks before being dispatched to customers across the globe.